To Lord Raglan: The Sleeve to Fit the Occassion

FitzRoy Sommerset, became the first Baron Raglan, having already been injured in service, and then at Waterloo sustained an injury so severe he lost his right arm. To diminish attention to the fact that he had only one arm, he used to wear his garments very loose in the shoulder and henceforth, the Raglan sleeve acquired his name. It's an elegant sleeve. Raglan sleeves can be done in a variety of sharp detailing to make them your own, and they fit well on all sorts of body types, also befitting Lord Raglan, who was quite unique for many of his accomplishments and after his injury quickly learned to write lefty and went on to many more years of distinguished service even after his injury. 

Toiles Peintes and Sketching My Designs

Toiles Peintes is a French term meaning "painted linens" it actually was that a piece of heavy linen on which the tapestry under design construction was made to be sketched, and designed to be rigid enough, and durable enough that the design would be suitable for hanging. I actually prefer to do these on rolls of Japanese paper, as it's very handy to be able to cut off pieces of irregular sizes, I feel much more economical, and it suits the brushy style I like to write and draw when sketching.It's a great concept for those early knit sketches, especially to help me remember what I want to change up if I am adapting the design to a cushion or a hat or a pot holder. And I like to decorate my yarn stash room with these. My newest find is an antique album, and I use these sketches, or occasionally the swatches themselves  in place of the picture openings to create a unique heirloom all of my own.

Munsell's Coloring Wheel System

It's not always possible to match it all up. Usually I rely on eying the colors, or eying the stash more like it. I own several color design books, for decor, for paint, for photography, just for combining colors and learning what is "cool" and what is "hot" or autumnal, seemed pretty obvious at the start. But I'm starting to think the typical Munsell's Coloring Wheel System is not exactly powered for the light reflection of fibers. There are many ways that perfect color just doesn't match...or luckily visa versa. Will surf around for posts on matching color fiber.

Patternwork

If you can be disciplined enough to do your swatch, then you can measure it, and then you can create a graph that is customized to the swatch and then the pattern ou draw on to it will fit the yarn quite nicely.The last pattern I did I used "knitting graph paper" but then I knitted various gauge swatches to see what looked the best. Backwards, but fun! Here's the on line graph by gauge I stumbled on Sweaterscapes Knitting Graphs

Navajo Warming Blanket

The look of the last striped blanket I knitted was so Navajo in the look that as I looked at a stack of Manose de Uruguay handspun kettle dyed wool in colorway G I decided to make another blanket and this time get the brown, beige, gray, and red of an even more traditional Southwest look. The gray Twinkle yarn, and Rowan Big Wool, with  the remains of my treasured because discontinued chunky Malbrigo created a palate that was exciting to me and inspiring to just look at.

The Navajo weavings have been sorted into the Classic, the Transition and the Rug periods. The Classic period spanned about 200 years after the mid 17th century, the Rug period from just prior to 1900 until now, with Transition being in between. The styling was simple: rectangles that could be worn as a wrap or a shoulder blanket. The yarns of the tradional Navajos are S-spun worsted and they had long fibers and were somewhat stiff. By the time they were moving into the Transition period they had z-spun worsted that were probably from churro wool of the Spanish. Eventually more nappy yarns of the English and Americans was introduced. Then softer yarns they called Germantown or Saxony from mills of New England that came from the Saxony-Merino sheep found in Saxony and Germany. The yarn itself was spun in the Phily suburb of Germantown, and often the dyes were synthetic. Eventually the Navajos were convinced to try to improve their sheep with these blood lines so they could get more wool per animal, but often lack of suitable range to be fed and inbreeding produced wools that were poor in quality.

The yarns were used in weaving but I like to think that the thick blankets I knit with the 50 mm needles and the multiple strands use create a melange reminiscent of the weft and warp look. The traditional coloring reds were of cochineal or the bayeta. Cochineal itself is from a bug that lives on the prickly pear. Other red tones are achieved by the addition of Lac. Lac is an Oriental import that is the resin of insect scales that traders introduced into the Navajo color palate. The greens were of an indigo and native plant yellow dye mixed together. White as a color was not used in the oldest patterns, but probably was introduced by the Spanish. Sumac twigs and leaves created the blacks. As they moved into their Transition period, the weavers got practical and began using kit dyes that were provided to them by Wells and Richardson of Vermont. these prepackaged Diamond dyes would work by just adding water, although the resulting colors were compromised significantly due to their poor woo. By the 1930s a vocational high school teacher, and Navajo weaver named Nonabah Bryan began cataloging formuls from dye mixed of local plants.

When creating my patterns for the striped blankets it is so tempting not to plan at all but to knit and just grab whatever fancies my eye next. But then, when using some expensive yarns I'm more apt to want to plan, and it's fun to experiment with patterns with some tape and short cuttings of the wools. I have loved the Moqui pattern of narrow indigo blue and black stripes, but I had decided not to use an actual blue in this blanket. The Chief blankets, the small, almost square blankets of the fourth phase of the Classic period are some of the most inspiring striped patterns. The wider than long blanket are more traditional of the Navajo, and the ones more long than wide are the serape of the Spanish. Red or blue bordered blankets were also called "maiden shawls". I'm sticking to stripes for now and may more into some graphed designs with the traditonal diamond centers that are common in these rugs.

The project is underway, the night is young, I rest my hands every few rows as it gets heavier and heavier, and as the fire is winding down, the blanket will help to warm me while knitting in the quite house.

Reference Navajo Weaving, Three Centuries of Change, by Kate Peck Kent

Knitting and an 'Agent Provacature'

Getting to the root of why we want to knit what we are working on. It has to be the inspiration, no? We all have seminal events in our life, and some may grace your emotions with an "agent provocateur". For some of the history behind that provocative name, check the blog post on GynoGab. And for those who have an ongoing 'agent provocateur' it would be well to identify it's source. So when I knit, I take copious notes in the margins of things I've read during the day, remembered to look up, or spoke about in hushed tones late at night.